GARETH STEWART
Gareth Stewart, now Soul's head chef, was working at Mews of Mayfair in London when his Kiwi wife, Angela, spotted an advertisement on the internet: Soul in Auckland was seeking a 'world class' chef. Boldly, Gareth applied, thinking the position would be way beyond the reach of an English sous-chef who had worked only in England. Judith Tabron, however, requested he write and send a menu. He was astounded to be sent an airline ticket a few days later: Judith wanted him to come to New Zealand for a week to be interviewed and to do a test stint in the Soul kitchen.
On his third day in Auckland he was set the task of cooking his own menu for an exacting audience: Judith Tabron, operations manager Geeling Ching and restaurant critic Lauraine Jacobs. Gareth wowed them with food that was stylish and interesting, dishes that showed his skill and passion for seriously refined food that was fresh and full of flavour. He got the job on the spot. Angela, of course, was thrilled; when she married Gareth she knew that ultimately the couple would settle in New Zealand.
Gareth grew up near Portsmouth, in Hampshire, and at age 14 started as a waiter in the local Queen's Hotel. He quickly moved to the kitchen where, when he was 18, the hotel's sous-chef recognised that Gareth could go far if he had the chance. Dressing him in a suit and lending him a briefcase to carry, he accompanied him to London where he had a contact at the famed Claridge's hotel. Gareth landed a job there, spending the next two years in the kitchens, learning the tough way: loads of shouting, occasional physical abuse and constant hard work.
He worked in London over the next few years at restaurants, private clubs, and even in a small dive that served Mexican/French food, but had his 'lightbulb' moment at revered restaurant The Greenhouse with executive chef Bjorn van der Horst. Working from 7am to 2am for days on end was challenging, but everyone in the kitchen was like-minded. They worked with food products of pure luxury, the best that could be bought, and one day a switch went on in Gareth's mind. He thought, 'I get this. I truly love cooking and I love every aspect of a chef's life.'
Gareth loves his job as head chef at Soul, a position he has held for almost three years. He manages the challenge of inspiring his kitchen team, creates the menus, cooks on the line, oversees the ordering and costing of the food, and ensures every bite that Soul's customers devour is delicious. He loves working with and teaching his large and loyal kitchen team, and continues to learn management skills while having fun with them all.
He's brought his stamp to the food at Soul, although he's the first to admit that the food of his early career true fine-dining cuisine, has had to be refined for such a large audience. The kitchen can turn out up to 300 meals at lunch and almost as many in the evenings, so Soul's menu demands lots of preparation behind the scenes and before service, and must be moved out with speed and haste under intense pressure. He loves working with Judith Tabron, who as an experienced chef herself with a similarly rigorous background, can look at any kitchen issues from a chef's point of view. Gareth has a demanding role but he can't imagine working anywhere else.
